
"My mother cried at Karakul Lake"
We are a Malay family of six and food was our biggest worry. It turned out to be the easiest part — halal restaurants in every town, and Abdul our driver knew which ones. He built prayer stops into the drive without us asking. The Karakoram Highway day was the one. My mother had seen photos of Karakul Lake for years and when we finally stood there she just cried.

